Reticulated Sterling Silver

Janice Stiles

In jewelry, reticulation is a metalworking technique that uses controlled, localized heat to create a rippled, textured surface with distinct ridges and valleys. This sterling silver pendant, featuring a beautiful dangling 6x8mm lab ruby, is a striking example of the art of reticulation.
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I work with sterling silver sheet metal (92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper) as my base material. Using a propane torch, I heat the metal until it begins to shift and move, then “pickle” it in citric acid to remove copper oxides. By gently scrubbing the metal with a small brush, I remove any leftover copper that may have been brought to the surface, leaving a pure metal layer.
This torching and pickling process may be repeated many times to achieve the desired surface. True reticulation takes finesse, concentration, and a deft torch hand—it’s not predictable and never produces the same result twice. That element of chance is what I love, as it gives each piece its own one-of-a-kind character.

 

Reticulation gives these boat-shaped earrings a touch of sophistication, making them perfect for both dressy and casual occasions. Their crisp form, paired with a softly textured surface, creates a timeless appeal for all ages.
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The beauty of these Malachite earrings is highlighted by a decorative sterling bezel and discs of reticulated silver. The reticulation adds depth and texture, enhancing the natural elegance of the Malachite.
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I love working with reticulation because each piece is truly one of a kind - impossible to duplicate. The textures and patterns that emerge are unlike anything else, full of movement and life.
While many jewelers avoid this technique because it’s time-consuming, I’m drawn to the random, organic beauty it creates.
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